Erasmus + Climbing for everybody: a hundred European climbers have gathered in September in the National Park Paklenica, Croatia, climbing paradise and a place of great interest from the point of view of Speleological, geological and naturalistic.
From 24 to 30 September a hundred European climber was willing ati appointment on the Paklenica riviera, in the region of Zadar (Croatia) where the rocky coastline, interspersed by valleys, turns suddenly into pebble beaches and the blue sea change in the green of the forests, to the peaks of the mountains.
Paklenica National Park is definitely the best known Croatian climbing area: with more than 400 nail head lines, mostly fix, include the area of Velika and Mala Paklenica; karst canyons alternating with valleys and mountain meadows. It is not however a heavenly place for only climbers but, thanks to the variety of flora and fauna and features limestone structures, is of particular interest from the point of view of Speleological, geological and naturalistic
CROATIAN CLIMBING MECCA
Despite the reduced possibility of opening new routes within the Paklenica Gorge, you can find something for all tastes and difficulty: there are cords of any difficulty, both for beginners and for those who want to try their hand at degrees (among the most famous: the marathon runner, 8b +, open and freed by Manolo), in style ranging from plaque to inclines. As regards the roads passing by plaque placed at easy ridges, rising from sport routes up to 8a. Besides the beauty of the landscape and the sea glimpses outweigh any effort. Among all the walls of the Valley, Anica kuk, 712 metres high, with its 350 vertical or overhanging limestone facts mentioned, worked from sharp blades and special water drops and with walls covered entirely by rigole
carved by water turns out to be the real gem; at the mere sight we understand why this place is the mecca of Croatian climbing (for more information refer to the may 2012). The Italian team, after a summer of classic mountaineering town meetings, undertook the journey to Croatia, hoping for an intense week of climbing, friendship, cooperation and, why not, some sea. The atmosphere on arrival didn't disappoint: we found old friends, talked about future plans and of the climbs made during the summer. We admired the Slovak Consortium, in late August, has been awarded the first iteration of the street l'Or du temps, just opened on the Grand Capucin to Nina Caprez and Arnaud Petit, who now eat quietly beside us chatting; We listen enraptured Czech Jachym Srb while he tells us of his repetition of Divine Providence to the Grand Pilier d'angle: a dream perhaps unachievable for most of the mountaineers.
THAT FEELING OF FREEDOM
Unfortunately the weather is not initially on our side: the first two days spend under a dense and pelting rain that won't give us a break. We spend time dedicating ourselves to group work, learning the history of the Packlenica National Park and visiting the most famous Cave of Manita Pec.
It is well known that the climber, usually intoxicated by that feeling of freedom given by climbing, do not like to descend into the depths, where the light and their mistresses walls disappear, leaving room for stalactites and stalagmites. However we admire in awe this beauty created by nature, and we adhere to a further visit in a second Speleological site, less touristy and more adventurous, a few kilometres away from our accommodations. After the first rainy days the weather finally returns in the canyon, and excited we enter in the Valley and its over 150 km of hiking trails, to enjoy the magnificent White limestone walls and routes that Packlenica has to offer. In the week, mainly
couples, we will address: Mosoraska, Armadillion (6a), Dreaming of a lost friend (6a +), infinite (7a +), Bears on toast (6 c +), BWSC (6 c +), no mercy (6b +) and various cords at the Crag. The whole group is nothing short of Thunderstruck: we tried the sandstone of the distinctive towers of Adrspach-Teplice in the Czech Republic, we admired the beautiful Popradske Pleso granite plaques, in Slovakia, and now we find ourselves on the rock to us more congenial, limestone.
THE FUTURE STARTS WITH YOUNG PEOPLE
Were also carried out projects relating to international relations between the teams, in particular, aware of the importance of young people, who must inescapably be the soul of societies such as ours, in order to give a boost to come, We ran some workshops with students from a local school, trying to foment in boys that passion that motivates us during the discovery of a new way, that inspiring press freedom, excitement and fear that there pervades as we try to pull the rope through the referral over our head and the frenzy that makes us reach the goal, despite the fatigue, pain and difficulties.
Among other initiatives, is the presentation of the climb Everest made by a Croatian all-female expedition which made proud all women taking part in this project: we know that mountaineering and mountain in General Sports was for years considered almost exclusively male and also hopefully thanks to these initiatives, to make it clear to the girls that there are still many facets and targets needing just us women to be reached. Recommend to all to get lost in the Paklenica canyon, who for a relaxing holiday between sea and climbing, perhaps family, and who to solve some of projects not yet released, and who also only to enjoy the sunset from the top of Anica Kuk, watching the Sun disappear in the middle of the sea.
Arianna Proserpio
(Mountains 360, December 2017)